I generally have pretty low expectations for Forest Hills eateries, as they tend to be of the tired chain or the good-50-years-ago variety. So, when I heard rumors about the high quality of this year-old restaurant, I just had to see (and eat) for myself!
My companion and I walked over to quiet Metropolitan Avenue and saw that the old Dee's space had been converted into a modern, inviting room that resembled the popular 12th Street Bar & Grill in Park Slope. We sat down to some crusty bread and perused the long wine list and Mediterranean-influenced menu.
Immediately, we realized we were in for something other than the typical Forest Hills experience! There was a charcuterie-and-cheese menu, there were entrees like organic chicken under a brick and sides like hand-cut fries. A gentleman behind us was happily nibbling on some Parmigiano Reggiano.
Our gracious, knowledgeable waitress chose a fruity Pinot Noir for us and soon, we started work on a small plate: a delicious cake of salmon tartare, crowned with a dollop of creme fraiche and served with small toasts. We'd almost gone for the grilled calamari, but the tartare was great for sharing.
Next arrived a big bowl of handmade pappardelle in a hearty roasted tomato sauce, topped with shreds of Parmigiano and arugula leaves. The star of the evening was the monkfish: five hunks of chimichurri-crusted, tender fish with garlicky broccoli rape and a couscous accented with pine nuts and red currants. (We couldn't resist checking out everyone else's entree; the burger and the salmon with bacon and lentils looked great too!)
For dessert, we enjoyed the intense red wine poached pear, which came with a small bowl of ultra-rich gorgonzola dolce and cranberry walnut toasts. Next time, we'll end with the buttermilk panna cotta or sweet crepes... or a cheese plate!
Thank you, Danny Brown, for adding such a delight to Forest Hills.
Update: It appears that this restaurant may have to change its name. But no matter what it's called, by all means, try it!
DB Wine Bar & Kitchen: 104-02 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, Queens, (718) 261-2144.
Monday, May 28, 2007
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2 comments:
As a resident of Forest Hills, I feel that you're giving short shrift to some of the restaurants there. Thai Austin on Austin Street is great, as is Dirty Pierre's (located right by the LIRR station), and of course Nick's for pizza.
Will,
If you search this blog, you will see positive reviews of Nick and Thai Pot, which I find superior to Thai Austin. You will also find an appreciation of the coffee at Munch Cafe.
Not every restaurant in Forest Hills is awful, obviously. But the options are unfortunately few and far between.
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